Aside from stuffing ourselves with corn on the cob, blueberries and donut peaches, I’ve tried a few new recipes recently, and made a couple of old favorites.
Sticky Miso Salmon Bowl: This was quite tasty! I made the sushi rice in the rice cooker, following the instructions on the package. For veggies I did thin sliced carrots and radishes, and I blanched some green beans and tossed them with a bit of salt and some toasted sesame oil. It would also be good with red, yellow, or orange bell peppers, avocado, cucumbers, steamed or sauteed kale, We served it with some chili crisp, pickled ginger, and furikake. Don’t skip the scallions, butter, and seasonings in the rice, it smelled so good.
Braised Chickpeas with Zucchini and Pesto: This is Deb’s latest recipe and it is delicious! It’s also super easy and forgiving. I started the heat as soon as the chickpeas and broth went in, and cut the rest of the cook time down to 30 minutes. I also missed the part where you’re supposed to stir after the first little while, but everything was fine. Take a quick taste after you add the pesto – I ended up doubling it. You’ll definitely want some bread with this. And actually, if you cook off enough of the liquid you could even use it as a sandwich filling.
Blistered Shishito and Corn Salad: This caught my eye because a couple of stans at our farmer’s market have shishitos this year. It was just ok. I didn’t have enough shishitos, which is not the recipie’s fault. I do think think it’d be better if the corn was cooked. I think next time I’ll do that, or turn it into a taco or quesadilla filling instead, or put it on a taco bowl.
Corn and Chorizo Tacos: One of my corn season favorites. You want fresh, Mexican chorizo for this, not the cured stuff. It’s also really good as a quesadilla filling and freezes well if you somehow wind up with too many leftovers.
Zucchini Quesadillas: Another Deb recipe, this time from a few years ago, but she shared it recently in a zucchini-focused edition of her newsletter. I’m specifically on the lookout for new summer squash recipes this year because it always looks so great at the farmer’s market, in part because there are multiple varieties available. This was pretty easy to put together. I added black beans when I assembled each quesadilla, but next time I’d just mix them in with the cheese and squash.
The first year I hosted Thanksgiving, I made broth with the turkey bones, so I could make turkey soup over the winter. I chose the Turkey Orzo Soup with Kale and Chickpeas (paywalled) because it was referenced in the method I followed for the stock. It is delicious and I look forward to it every year. The last couple of years I’ve served it with the Ligurian Focaccia, fresh out of the oven, and it makes for an extremely cozy meal.
This comes together in a flash because so much of the prep is done ahead of time, at least if your past self prepped and froze the stock and turkey meat. What I like about this soup is that you get a lovely, savory turkey flavor, and with each bite you can get a nice mix of chickpeas, orzo, turkey, and/or kale. It’s hearty but also light.
The only change I make to it is to add more kale, typically double. I find that the size of a bundle of kale can vary a lot, but for the grocery store tuscan kale I had this year, I weighed it out and was a little more than half the bundle. Oh, and I put in more spices than called for, probably closer to a teaspoon of each.
There are two things that make this special. One is the homemade stock, and the other is that it’s turkey soup, which I only make once a year. So if this post made you sad that you don’t have turkey stock in your freezer, I think this would be a great soup if you made it with homemade chicken stock.
The Turkey Orzo Soup with Kale and Chickpeas from Cook’s Illustrated.
I did not get into sourdough baking along with everyone else during the pandemic lockdowns. Instead, in true fashion, I am coming to this a few years late.
The sourdough from the bakery that comes to our farmer’s market is good bread but not a sour as I like my sourdough, and at some point this summer I decided I should learn how to make my own. I figured if I started practicing in the winter I’d probably be in pretty good shape for tomato season 2024.
So, for Christmas I asked for and received a sourdough kit from King Arthur, that came with some of their starter and a crock to keep it in. Knowing it had the starter in it, I opened it almost right away when it arrived and then followed their instructions to wake up the starter and feed it for a few days.
A couple of days before Christmas, I made my first loaf. I followed a recipe that came with the kit, which was billed as a good recipe for beginners. It came out fine. It was pretty good bread but it wasn’t the more rustic sourdough vibe I’m going for. But it was good for a confidence boost and some nearly-instant gratification.
After that, I had some questions and started looking around for books. I pretty quickly landed on The Perfect Loaf. I was able to peruse a surprisingly long chunk of it as an ebook sample, and saw that it starts out with a tutorial-style recipe that walks you through all the steps with just enough explanation for the moment. So, I purchased a copy of the ebook and embarked on my first attempt with the tutorial.
I really appreciated the extra explanations of the tutorial. There are several places where the author describes a couple of things that might be happening with your dough, how to address it right now, and what to change next time. For example, the flour I have on hand at the moment has a lower protein content than is called for, which I think led to the more flat shape of my loaf. So next time, I’m going to experiment with doing some extra stretches and folds (basically kneading) to see if that helps. I also appreciated the encouragement to take notes as I went along, and I have a couple of other things to pay closer attention to next time as well.
In the meantime, it was still a stunning success! I’m very happy with the crust and the interior texture. It’s great fresh and toasted (one of my favorite snacks is toasted sourdough with butter), and I’m already looking forward to making another loaf.
These Chile-Cheese Cookies from Bon Appetit are so good. The chile gives them some zestiness and the cheese adds a savory note. The shortbread texture is perfect.
You do need a food processor for this recipe, because there’s really no liquid. You’re just processing until the cheese and butter break down enough to form a dough. It’ll take a little while, just persevere, it will get there.
I recommend that you form these into two or more logs as it’ll be much easier to handle. I did find it a little tricky as they’re so dry; rolling into a log sort of worked but I had better luck patting it into shape and then gently rolling to try and even it out into something vaguely round. There were some cracks going through them that I was a little worried about, but chilling seemed to take care of that. (Mine chilled for a couple of days.)
One other note. I couldn’t get much of the sugar and pepper (I used Aleppo pepper) to stick until I brushed a bit of water on. So, I recommend doing that as it didn’t seem to hurt the final product.
I didn’t count how many I got, but this recipe made a lot, certainly more than 24. They didn’t spread, so you can crowd your baking sheets a bit. I did find it was hard to tell when they were done, and a few of them got a little caramelized on the bottom, but were still delicious.
This was our sixth year hosting Thanksgiving, and as with the past several years this one was a Friendsgiving. This year we had 8 people in total, which is a little bigger than average but completely manageable.
Rather than stressing too much about making enough sides, I have a core menu of what I make and then I ask guests to bring a side, a dessert, and any wine they want to have. That tends to work out well and ensures a pretty good spread. Here’s what I made this year.
Roast Turkey and Gravy with Herbes de Provence and Lemon from Cook’s Illustrated, with a pasture-raised turkey from Open Book Farm. I sort of made this last year as well, but I had a larger turkey and followed a different technique to cook it in pieces. This year I had a smaller bird so I made this as written. Don’t let the dry brine method freak you out. While it is a little weird to have an uncovered turkey in the fridge for a couple of days, nothing bad happens to it or to the other food in your fridge.
There are a few things I like about this recipe. First, it introduced me to dry brining. It is way easier than doing a wet brine (particularly if you’re using a brining bag, which I was.) Less fuss, because you don’t have to constantly rotate the turkey in the brine. Less chance of the brine bag springing a leak and creating a biohazard zone in your fridge. And equally great results. I am a dry-brine convert now.
Second, I like to add a lot of herbs to my turkey and this one has a lovely mix of fresh parsley and dried herbs de provence, which just make things feel fancy. (If you don’t like herbe de provence, any dried herb blend you do like would work here.) This year I used Spicewalla Herbs de Provence, but I’ve also used and liked the Penzey’s blend.
Third, I appreciate that the gravy recipe carries that herbal flavor through. I do make a couple of changes to it, though. I make it ahead of time (stopping right before you add the herb paste) and use chicken stock instead of water. (I make my own with a carcass from a roasted chicken that I save in the freezer, it’s super easy to make stock in an electric pressure cooker. I don’t worry about adding any veggies or even seasoning it, I do that whenever I use it.) I skipped adding the drippings this year; I did it last year and didn’t really feel like it added quite enough flavor for the added hassle. So when the recipe calls for drippings, I used a mix of butter and olive oil.
Rustic Bread Stuffing with Cranberries and Walnuts from Cook’s Illustrated. Stuffing, made outside of the bird, is a must for me. I like mine made out of the bird, with no protein. I’ve made this one every year, with all different kinds of bread. In my opinion, it’s best with a whole-wheat bread of some kind. It’s difficult to gauge how much bread to buy, but I’ve found that a (slightly crowded) half-sheet pan is perfect for us. This year I used a rustic loaf from Panorama Bakery which crisped up beautifully in the oven. I have tinkered with this recipe a bit, adding more cranberries and walnuts. And one year I replaced the onions with caramelized onions, which I thought was pretty tasty.
Kale Salad with Pecan Vinaigrette from Bon Appetit. Another one I’ve made before. This is a great way to add something green to the table, and it adds a nice contrast to the rest of the plate. It’s also easy to make ahead and stores well. We assembled this just before dinner this year, but it actually gets better the longer it sits with the dressing, so you could easily put this together during some down time earlier in the day.
I made some very simple, no recipe roasted butternut and acorn squash with frizzled pepitas and rosemary. I cut the neck of the butternut into thin half moons, and cut the acorn squash into ruffly crescents (you can leave the skin on) and roasted them on sheet pans with salt and pepper. Then I stacked them neatly into a small serving dish. While they were reheating, I frizzled some roasted, salted pepitas and fresh rosemary in a little bit of olive oil, and then sprinkled it over. (Yes, I stole that idea directly from the Sweet Potato Salad with Warm Pepita Dressing.) In the past I’ve made the Twice-Roasted Squash with Vanilla, Maple, and Chile from Bon Appetit, which folks have also enjoyed.
Simple Cranberry-Orange Sauce from Just Add Sauce. This is a straightforward cooked cranberry sauce that I really like. The orange adds a nice dimension to it and it’s easy to scale up or down depending on how many guests you’re having.
For the last couple of years I’ve also been experimenting with trying to get a salsa verde with autumnal herbs on the table but they never turn out quite right. At this point I think I’m going to give up on that since there are plenty of other flavors.
Our dessert contribution was from my husband, who made the Pecan Pie from the Smitten Kitchen blog, which is an incredible pie. (He also helped with some of the prep on Wednesday and was in charge of all random grocery runs, of which there were two this year.)
Here’s a look at the spread, along with the other sides our guests brought (minus the roasted broccoli with breadcrumbs, which was still in the oven). Everything was delicious and we had a wonderful time. I did make myself some notes for next year, and I’ve already spied a new stuffing recipe I might try, but overall this was a great menu that I would happily make again.